A Visit to the Beara Peninsula and Killarney Tuesday, March 9, 2010A problem with our rental car delayed our next outing. We had to drive to Kerry Airport to exchange vehicles, and it took so long we knew we wouldn’t see the entire Beara Peninsula as we'd planned. We’d see what we could, however. I’d visited Beara before, though my husband never had. I wanted to show him the village of Eyeries and the writing retreat whose hospitality I'd enjoyed, and I wanted to see parts of the area I'd never seen. With the rental car business squared away, we headed back to Kenmare and entered the gloriously rugged West Cork region.
Gertrude, our gallant GPS, did a commendable job with her new Irish maps until we reached Beara. The place completely baffled the poor thing. What should have been a simple drive around a modest peninsula quickly deteriorated into "direct routes" through obscure trails and elusive villages that were on the map but probably only appeared every seven years.
Eventually we unwound ourselves from the maze and found Healy Pass, a high winding road that runs from Lauragh in County Kerry to Adrigole in County Cork, cutting through the Caha Mountains. Perhaps it was because my husband was driving and I had no sense of control, but I couldn’t help imagining the car slipping over the edge of the road and plunging down the cliffs.
We stopped at a lofty overlook. Once I was out of the car, I felt safe enough to enjoy the spectacular scenery—but we had to get back down. What would happen if we met a car coming the other way? One of us would have to back up for miles. One of us would surely plunge. My bet would be on the Yanks driving backwards on the "wrong" side of the bicycle path road.
But we reached Adrigole at last having met only two other cars in spots where we could pull over and let them pass. We continued on to Castletownbere and stopped for lunch, assured by the owner we’d never find fresher haddock anywhere. He was right.
After lunch, we drove to Eyeries. Sadly, Sue Booth-Forbes, owner, director, and all around wizard of the Anam Cara Writer’s and Artist’s Retreat, was away on a family matter, but we viewed the house, Coolagh Bay, and the town. Only the occasional mooing of cows disturbed the peace. I wished we could linger and walk on the bogs, but the afternoon was fading fast. Perhaps we'd see the rest of the peninsula another time.
The next day we stayed in town for a walk in Killarney National Park. Fine blue skies and warmer temperatures graced our stroll to Ross Castle. The last time we’d seen the castle, scaffolding covered most of it. The renovations are complete, and though the old fort was closed for the winter, we had a wonderful tour of the grounds and a walk through the park.
That evening, we attended the traditional Irish music festival that had been our excuse to visit Ireland this time. After three great concerts, we returned to our hotel room to pack.
Gertrude got us safely back to Limerick the next afternoon. We strolled into town, and I picked up a few books for writing research. I nearly shrieked when I saw The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance, the new anthology containing a story I wrote, in one of the bookstores!
Our hotel room overlooked the Shannon River, beautiful at night. Our flight to Boston wouldn’t leave until the following afternoon, but I was already wondering how soon I could return.
Amazing photos, as always, Pat, and how awesome to see your anthology on the shelf in Ireland! When you go back, can I hide in your (super-size) suitcase??? ;)
By Chassily Wakefield, at
March 9, 2010 5:43 PM
Ooh I wanna go! Awesome pics of beautiful sites, Pat! The castle is amazing. And how cool to find your book in a store there. I hope you signed a few! :)
By Nicole North, at
March 9, 2010 7:01 PM
Fabulous pictures, Pat! I enjoyed every minute of your wonderful trip through your descriptions your wonderful pictures. I love it that you found your book on a shelf!
By Donna Goode, at
March 9, 2010 8:10 PM
Chassily, Nicole,and Donna, thanks for checking out the pix. Glad you enjoyed them. I didn't see any Irish guys skiing in kilts, but maybe by the next time it snows in Ireland, the sport will have spread across the Irish Sea :-)
By Pat McDermott, at
March 9, 2010 10:09 PM
Pat, what wonderful pictures, not only of the castles, etc., but the Irish skies! There's nothing like a changeable Irish sky, one minute grey and threatening, the next with the sun breaking through and a rainbow on the horizon. I know what you mean about wanting to go back again. On the day we left Ireland last summer, it rained, and I thought how appropriate that weather was, since I didn't want to leave. What a high it must have been to see your anthology in a bookstore there. I loved your story!
By Cynthia Owens, at
March 10, 2010 5:56 AM
Cynthia, I appreciate your kind words about my story. Thank you! We saw at least six rainbows in a week. Unfortunately, they got washed out in the pictures. We'll just have to go back and try again :-) Thanks for visiting!
By Pat McDermott, at
March 10, 2010 3:51 PM
My husband and I have visited Killarney in February several times. I love the smell of burning peat (called turf in Ireland) in the air, and though the trees are bare, the grass is green, and tropical plants blessed by the warming Gulf Stream flourish outdoors. We’d always seen pots of pansies hanging on the poles throughout the town.
Not this year. One pub owner told us the snow on the mountains was only designer snow. Another said Ireland had endured its worst winter in sixty years. But the atypical chill in the air didn’t hinder our touring plans, and I’m happy to report that the rain-to-snow forecasts for each day of our visit were wrong.
We armed Gertrude, our trusty GPS, with Irish maps to help us explore. She did her best to navigate our first daytrip, which took us south through Killarney National Park. Fog and showers obscured the views, but we were still adjusting to the five-hour time change and didn’t mind. Our twisty, narrow-laned drive brought us to the town of Kenmare, a colorful 19th century market town. Its Irish name, Neidin, means “little nest, ” as the town is nestled between the mountains of Kerry and Cork. We spent an enjoyable few hours browsing through shops, and I acquired several new CDs to feed my addiction to traditional Irish music. The weather had improved by the time we caught an Irish highway back to Killarney, seeing more than one rainbow along the way.
Above and Below - Scenery Along the Dingle Peninsula
Gertrude received a more vigorous workout the next day. A pleasant mix of clouds and sunny skies shone over our first visit to the Dingle Peninsula, the northernmost arm of Kerry stretching out into the Atlantic. I’d been researching ring forts for a writing project and didn’t realize I was about to see the prehistoric remains of more than one. The famous Beehive Huts and ancient Dunbeg Fort overlooking Dingle Bay would set anyone’s imagination awhirl. We drove out to the breathtakingly beautiful Slea Head, viewed the Blasket Islands, and drove on to see the Gallarus Oratory. On our way back to Killarney, we stopped in hilly Dingle Town for a stroll and a pub lunch.
Above - Ring Forts and Beehive Huts
Below - The Gallarus Oratory and the View From Its Door
Part two of our winter break will feature the Beara Peninsula and Killarney Town. Stay tuned!
Great pictures, Pat, and so many of them of places I know. That's priceless. I remember Kenmare very well and I swear the fish I ate in Dingle was the best I've ever had. That's saying something, because the fish all over Ireland is awesome. But I think there it jumped from the ocean onto my plate.
By Miriam Newman, at
March 5, 2010 3:16 PM
Looks like an awesome trip Pat! I almost got chills looking at the fort pictures, like you could feel the history there, very cool! The scenery everywhere is just fantastic. Someday, someday. Thank you so much for sharing:)
By David Duford, at
March 5, 2010 4:22 PM
Miriam, we really enjoyed Dingle Town, busy even off season. Didn't know you'd been out there ahead of me. I would have picked your brains before I went! Don't know if you saw my note to you on CH, but we made it to the Laurels for lunch. To die for mushroom soup, good Italian wine (don't tell anyone I don't like Guinness!) and a fabulous turf fire. You were in my thoughts, ma'am. Thanks for stopping by today!
By Pat McDermott, at
March 5, 2010 5:15 PM
Hey Lisa! Glad you enjoyed the photos. I don't usually post pictures with me in them, but as my husband said, "You're smiling in all of them." Hope to get to Part 2 over the weekend. Thanks for visiting!
By Pat McDermott, at
March 5, 2010 5:18 PM
Hi Dave. I found a book about ring forts in Killarney, but the $75 price tag made me leave it on the shelf. Who knew I'd get to see the remains of ring forts the very next day? I've given up trying to figure out the apparent coincidences that abound in Ireland. I hope to meet you in a pub over there one of these days. Thank you so much for stopping by.
By Pat McDermott, at
March 5, 2010 5:22 PM
What wonderful photos, Pat! I so envy you. I'm still in an Irish mist over my trip last July, and I can't wait to visit again. And I understand what you mean about the Irish roads - we got lost several times, but as far as I was concerned, it was just one more research opportunity. Don't know that hubby and kids felt the same way, though. Can't wait for Part II!
By Cynthia Owens, at
March 5, 2010 11:09 PM
A Book in the Hand is Worth . . . Friday, February 12, 2010I received my author's copies of The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance today. What a thrill to hold this treasure-filled book in my hands at last after seeing the cover pop up all over the internet for the past few months!
My contribution, a story called By the Light of My Heart, is a tale of ancient magic that lingers into the early twentieth century. It's the last entry in this incredible anthology. Each story touches on different aspects of Irish myth, magic, and romance in the most imaginative ways. My kind of book, and I hope yours too!
Beautiful, Pat! Brought back warm memories when my daughters and I visited the same areas. Thank you for sharing.
By Gerri Bowen, at
March 6, 2010 3:16 PM
Gerri, That must have been a memorable trip. Glad I could help with those memories. Thanks for dropping by!
By Pat McDermott, at
March 7, 2010 11:28 AM
The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance is Here! Tuesday, January 26, 2010Today is Release Day for The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance. I'm delighted that the collection includes one of my short stories, By the Light of My Heart. And I can't wait to read all the others!
Fiery Roses is a Recommended Read Monday, January 18, 2010My thanks to fellow Red Rose Publishing author Nancy O'Berry for her generous mention of Fiery Roses as a Recommended Read for January in her January Newsletter. Nancy writes both historical and contemporary romance, and is the author of the Sweetbriar Academy series.
Interview on "Desire from the Darkside" Wednesday, January 13, 2010I have an interview up today on the blog of fellow Red Rose Publishing author Honoria Ravena, including an excerpt from Fiery Roses. Stop by if you have time!
Hello, Ann. I doubt I'm related to the Pat you met, but you never know. McDermott is a common Irish name, and I know little about my McDermott ancestry. I know more about my mother's O'Brien family. Thank you for downloading the story. Was is Fiery Roses? I hope you enjoy it, and I hope you get to visit Ireland some day!
By Pat McDermott, at
January 13, 2010 10:20 AM
Fiery Roses in Living Color Thursday, January 7, 2010The book trailer for Fiery Rosesis ready! Thanks to my talented web designer, Rick Shagoury, a glimpse into this exciting story is available for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy!
This is awesome, Pat, just awesome! Mr. Shagoury has a great talent to bring out your vision, doesn't he? The music captured the tone of each scene quite well also. I'm so proud!
Yes, Mr. Shagoury is a talented lad, and most willing to collaborate on a project until it's just right. Thanks for stopping by, Dave!
By Pat McDermott, at
January 11, 2010 4:14 PM
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Gertrude received a more vigorous workout the next day. A pleasant mix of clouds and sunny skies shone over our first visit to the 
