Put the Kettle On

This blog has moved

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Wed, 21 Apr 2010 22:50:00 +0000

This blog is now located at http://pat-mcdermott.blogspot.com/.
You will be automatically redirected in 30 seconds, or you may click here.

For feed subscribers, please update your feed subscriptions to
http://pat-mcdermott.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default.

Fiery Roses is on Kindle

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 11:00:00 +0000

News for those of you who enjoy your Kindles: Fiery Roses has finally joined A Band of Roses on Amazon Kindle!

A Visit to the Beara Peninsula and Killarney

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 18:48:00 +0000

A problem with our rental car delayed our next outing. We had to drive to Kerry Airport to exchange vehicles, and it took so long we knew we wouldn’t see the entire Beara Peninsula as we'd planned. We’d see what we could, however. I’d visited Beara before, though my husband never had. I wanted to show him the village of Eyeries and the writing retreat whose hospitality I'd enjoyed, and I wanted to see parts of the area I'd never seen. With the rental car business squared away, we headed back to Kenmare and entered the gloriously rugged West Cork region.

Gertrude, our gallant GPS, did a commendable job with her new Irish maps until we reached Beara. The place completely baffled the poor thing. What should have been a simple drive around a modest peninsula quickly deteriorated into "direct routes" through obscure trails and elusive villages that were on the map but probably only appeared every seven years.

Eventually we unwound ourselves from the maze and found Healy Pass, a high winding road that runs from Lauragh in County Kerry to Adrigole in County Cork, cutting through the Caha Mountains. Perhaps it was because my husband was driving and I had no sense of control, but I couldn’t help imagining the car slipping over the edge of the road and plunging down the cliffs.

We stopped at a lofty overlook. Once I was out of the car, I felt safe enough to enjoy the spectacular scenery—but we had to get back down. What would happen if we met a car coming the other way? One of us would have to back up for miles. One of us would surely plunge. My bet would be on the Yanks driving backwards on the "wrong" side of the bicycle path road.

But we reached Adrigole at last having met only two other cars in spots where we could pull over and let them pass. We continued on to Castletownbere and stopped for lunch, assured by the owner we’d never find fresher haddock anywhere. He was right.

After lunch, we drove to Eyeries. Sadly, Sue Booth-Forbes, owner, director, and all around wizard of the Anam Cara Writer’s and Artist’s Retreat, was away on a family matter, but we viewed the house, Coolagh Bay, and the town. Only the occasional mooing of cows disturbed the peace. I wished we could linger and walk on the bogs, but the afternoon was fading fast. Perhaps we'd see the rest of the peninsula another time.

The next day we stayed in town for a walk in Killarney National Park. Fine blue skies and warmer temperatures graced our stroll to Ross Castle. The last time we’d seen the castle, scaffolding covered most of it. The renovations are complete, and though the old fort was closed for the winter, we had a wonderful tour of the grounds and a walk through the park.

That evening, we attended the traditional Irish music festival that had been our excuse to visit Ireland this time. After three great concerts, we returned to our hotel room to pack.

Gertrude got us safely back to Limerick the next afternoon. We strolled into town, and I picked up a few books for writing research. I nearly shrieked when I saw The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance, the new anthology containing a story I wrote, in one of the bookstores!

Our hotel room overlooked the Shannon River, beautiful at night. Our flight to Boston wouldn’t leave until the following afternoon, but I was already wondering how soon I could return.

A Winter Visit to Kerry

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 15:38:00 +0000

My husband and I have visited Killarney in February several times. I love the smell of burning peat (called turf in Ireland) in the air, and though the trees are bare, the grass is green, and tropical plants blessed by the warming Gulf Stream flourish outdoors. We’d always seen pots of pansies hanging on the poles throughout the town.

Not this year. One pub owner told us the snow on the mountains was only designer snow. Another said Ireland had endured its worst winter in sixty years. But the atypical chill in the air didn’t hinder our touring plans, and I’m happy to report that the rain-to-snow forecasts for each day of our visit were wrong.

We armed Gertrude, our trusty GPS, with Irish maps to help us explore. She did her best to navigate our first daytrip, which took us south through Killarney National Park. Fog and showers obscured the views, but we were still adjusting to the five-hour time change and didn’t mind. Our twisty, narrow-laned drive brought us to the town of Kenmare, a colorful 19th century market town. Its Irish name, Neidin, means “little nest, ” as the town is nestled between the mountains of Kerry and Cork. We spent an enjoyable few hours browsing through shops, and I acquired several new CDs to feed my addiction to traditional Irish music. The weather had improved by the time we caught an Irish highway back to Killarney, seeing more than one rainbow along the way.

Above and Below - Scenery Along the Dingle Peninsula

Gertrude received a more vigorous workout the next day. A pleasant mix of clouds and sunny skies shone over our first visit to the Dingle Peninsula, the northernmost arm of Kerry stretching out into the Atlantic. I’d been researching ring forts for a writing project and didn’t realize I was about to see the prehistoric remains of more than one. The famous Beehive Huts and ancient Dunbeg Fort overlooking Dingle Bay would set anyone’s imagination awhirl. We drove out to the breathtakingly beautiful Slea Head, viewed the Blasket Islands, and drove on to see the Gallarus Oratory. On our way back to Killarney, we stopped in hilly D ingle Town for a stroll and a pub lunch.

Above - Ring Forts and Beehive Huts

Below - The Gallarus Oratory and the View From Its Door

Part two of our winter break will feature the Beara Peninsula and Killarney Town. Stay tuned!

A Book in the Hand is Worth . . .

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 17:47:00 +0000

I received my author's copies of The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance today. What a thrill to hold this treasure-filled book in my hands at last after seeing the cover pop up all over the internet for the past few months!

My contribution, a story called By the Light of My Heart, is a tale of ancient magic that lingers into the early twentieth century. It's the last entry in this incredible anthology. Each story touches on different aspects of Irish myth, magic, and romance in the most imaginative ways. My kind of book, and I hope yours too!

The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance is Here!

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Tue, 26 Jan 2010 19:20:00 +0000

Today is Release Day for The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance. I'm delighted that the collection includes one of my short stories, By the Light of My Heart. And I can't wait to read all the others!

Fiery Roses is a Recommended Read

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 11:11:00 +0000

My thanks to fellow Red Rose Publishing author Nancy O'Berry for her generous mention of Fiery Roses as a Recommended Read for January in her January Newsletter. Nancy writes both historical and contemporary romance, and is the author of the Sweetbriar Academy series.

Interview on "Desire from the Darkside"

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 11:58:00 +0000

I have an interview up today on the blog of fellow Red Rose Publishing author Honoria Ravena, including an excerpt from Fiery Roses. Stop by if you have time!

Fiery Roses in Living Color

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 21:44:00 +0000

The book trailer for Fiery Roses is ready! Thanks to my talented web designer, Rick Shagoury, a glimpse into this exciting story is available for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy!

The Roses of Prose - My First 2010 Interview

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 17:11:00 +0000

Why not take a break and read an excerpt from Fiery Roses at The Roses of Prose? This fine blog is hosting my first 2010 interview all day today and sponsoring a contest. To enter, leave a comment including your favorite Irish proverb, and you could win a copy of A Band of Roses!

Good Luck to Us All in the New Year!

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Fri, 01 Jan 2010 15:30:00 +0000

The past year has seen both the re-release of my first novel, A Band of Roses, and the Christmas Eve debut of the sequel, Fiery Roses. Not bad! I also wrote a novella entitled By the Light of My Heart, which will appear in the forthcoming anthology, The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance. Click here to see the gorgeous covers and read an excerpt or two.

What about 2010? Early in the year, I'll finish Salty Roses, the third book in the "Roses" trilogy. I should have the first chapter posted on my web site soon. I'm thinking of trying something different and may give the Young Adult genre a try. If in the process I make as many new and wonderful friends as I have over the last year, I will consider myself blessed. And I hope to visit Ireland once or twice.

I wish you all health, happiness, and prosperity. Happy New Year, everyone!

Fiery Roses - The Story Behind the Story

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 16:00:00 +0000

Fiery Roses didn’t start as a sequel. Having brought A Band of Roses to a happily-ever-after conclusion, I envisioned my second book as something different, a story based on the horrors of raging, out of control flames. When I was eight, such an inferno nearly destroyed my family’s new house, ruining our Christmas, injuring firefighters, and leaving me waking in the middle of the night smelling smoke for years. And so, knowing I had what it takes to complete a novel, I set about channeling all those nightmares into one heck of a scary story.

Early in 2005, I started researching arsonists (a very young firebug started the fire in my family’s home) and brought a preliminary character sketch of a fire-setting villain to my writing class. Meanwhile, I was monitoring the Irish news online, vicariously living in Ireland, the country with which I’d fallen hopelessly in love during my first visit in 2004. I noted rumblings concerning plans to harvest the natural gas discovered in the Corrib Gas Field, a section of the sea fifty miles off the northwest coast of County Mayo, in October 1996.

The arsonist I'd created began to merge with the characters in A Band of Roses. With my imaginary Irish royal family still fresh in my mind, I couldn't help wondering how the indomitable descendants of High King Brian Boru would deal with the political tangle the Corrib gas find had become.

The main problem seemed to stem from the objection of certain Mayo residents to the planned installation of pipelines that would run raw gas from sea to land and across unstable bogs. These people also objected, and still do, to the construction of a refinery to treat the gas ashore rather than at sea. Both sides of the argument have voiced concerns, and the tangle has spun into a snarling web far too complex for the scope of this blog. (For anyone interested in learning more, Shell to Sea has posted a timeline of events on their website, and a history of the Corrib project is available on the website of Ireland's Petroleum Affairs Division.)

My husband and I had planned a trip to Ireland in the summer of 2005, and we decided to visit County Mayo. We spent a week in Cork with friends, and after seeing them off at Shannon Airport, we continued north (by bus - we weren’t brave enough to drive on the opposite side of the road back then). Late on Sunday afternoon, June 26, we checked into our hotel in the lovely west Mayo town of Westport, three-time winner of Ireland’s Tidy Town award.

The Corrib protests appeared to be centered in Rossport, a remote village on the north Mayo coast. The hotel receptionist said we could reach it by bus, "but you can’t get back the same day." Disappointed but undaunted, we hired a driver named Simon and headed for the bogs.

Early on the morning of Tuesday, June 29, Simon drove us north through the village of Newport, then west through Mulranny. Rain showers had his windshield wipers clicking now and then. Soon after passing the old hotel overlooking Mulranny Bay, we turned north again. We entered some exquisitely scenic country, the ocean to our left, the Nephin Mountains to our right.

Just past Castlehill, we reached the bogs, which resembled rolling meadows at first glance. Gullies interspersed the expanses of green scraw, the layer of tough fibrous sod that covered the peat, or turf, as it’s called in Ireland. Cows, sheep, and flocks of blackbirds roamed everywhere, the sheep marked with different colors on their wool to show who owned them. Rows of shrubbery rather than stone walls divided the bumpy land into square patches. Masses of white bog cotton and yellow buttercups painted the scraw. New homes and crumbling old cottages dotted the landscape. We passed tree farms and quarries and soon saw black squares of turf set in rows to dry. Some of the dark blocks stood in tepee-shaped stooks to let the air at them.

Black swaths throughout the bogs marked the sections from which turf had been cut over the years, by hand with a tool called a slean, Simon told us, pronouncing the word shlane. The cuts were obvious, neat vertical banks that looked like tiny dark cliffs topped with the omnipresent scraw. In many places, water filled the bottoms of the cuts.

Simon parked so we could see the turf up close. We stepped over a low barbed wire fence. The ground was spongy, and in some places quite soaked. I lost my balance and tore my jeans on the barbed wire, not one of my most graceful moments.

On we went, continuing north, passing southbound trucks transporting goods from local businesses. Turf cutting machines were busy at a commercial turf harvesting company in Bangor Erris, where we also passed a limestone quarry. We took a break in Belmullet, a bustling market town situated on a narrow neck of land between Broadhaven Bay and Blacksod Bay. Ancient black cauldrons filled with colorful flowers sat along the sidewalks. In true Irish fashion, Simon struck up a conversation with the ladies who ran the tea shop. They asked where we were going, and when he answered "Rossport," they said we’d better keep our heads down.

From Belmullet we drove east and soon saw a sign for the Corrib Gas Terminal. Men in hard hats were hard at work behind a chain link fence. Down the road, large sections of blue pipe awaited installation.

We turned north at Glenamoy. Sheep and cows wandered everywhere. At one point, we had to stop when a small herd of cows blocked the road. Simon eased through them like a pro.

Before we reached Rossport, we turned onto a road leading to another Shell construction site. Protestors sat in cars along the road. They had pitched a tent and set out hand-painted signs that said things like, "We are Irish citizens, not Shell subjects." We viewed the construction site—trucks, men, and small buildings surrounded by a chain link security fence—and turned around.

The tiny Ga eltacht village of Rossport ran down to the water, presenting a very pretty picture. There wasn't much to the place. A cottage housed the post office. We didn’t see a church, or even a pub. Scattered mountains surrounded the stark but lovely area.

Mission accomplished, we left Rossport behind, passing bogs and goat-infested ruins, traveling east until we reached the steep coastal cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. We drove by the Céide Fields archaeological site and through the towns of Ballycastle and Killala, at last stopping for a late pub lunch in Ballina. Simon found a bookstore for me, and I picked up two books about the local bogs.

The next morning, Wednesday, June 29, we learned that Royal Dutch Shell had sought and obtained a court order for the arrest of five Rossport area men who refused the company access to their land. The men, who became internationally known as the Rossport Five, spent ninety-four days in prison.

As I worked on Fiery Roses, an imaginary story with fictitious villains and heroes, I followed the Irish news online, waiting for some resolution to the increasing hostility in the Rossport area. I finished writing the book a year ago, after spending more than three years tidying up all the fanciful plot twists with the help of make-believe characters. I filled my tale with action, adventure, and romance, and achieved another happily-ever-after ending. Sadly, the real situation in north Mayo remains unresolved, and I am truly sorry for the trouble in that quiet, spectacular land.

Only Five More Days to Wait for "Fiery Roses"

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Sat, 19 Dec 2009 20:09:00 +0000

Fiery Roses, the exciting sequel to A Band of Roses, will be released as an e-book next Thursday, December 24th, by Red Rose Publishing. What a great holiday gift for readers who love adventure and romance!

Come visit an Ireland that might have been!

A Gift from the Authors of Red Rose Publishing

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 20:54:00 +0000

Kissin' Don't Last

Cookin' Does

A Collection of Recipes

From the Authors of Red Rose Publishing

Get Your Copy Here

Fiery Roses - The Cover Has Landed!

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 20:27:00 +0000

The cover is out for Fiery Roses, and it's gorgeous! My sincere thanks to talented cover artist Shirley Burnett. Fiery Roses, the sequel to A Band of Roses, is scheduled for release in e-book format December 24th from Red Rose Publishing. Here's what "Fiery" is about:

The discovery of gas off the coast of northwest Ireland ensnares Irish Princess Talty Boru and her devoted champion, Neil Boru, in a web of blackmail and murder. County Mayo's residents object to a pipeline crossing their pristine boglands, but an arsonist tries to change their minds by setting homes and land ablaze. One of his fires sends newlyweds Neil and Talty to an ancient world at the mercy of a waking volcano. While they struggle to outwit a tyrant with a shocking secret, King Brian locks horns with a ruthless tycoon who will stop at nothing to become a high roller in the oil and gas game. The resulting conflict proves fatal for the Boru clan, whose members once again close ranks to thwart the latest threat to the kingdom they are sworn to protect.

Mammoth Irish Adventure

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 13:55:00 +0000

Happy Halloween, everyone! At last I have my official copy of the gorgeous cover art for The Mammoth Book of Irish Romance, due for release in the UK in January and in the US in March. This new anthology in the "Mammoth" series will feature my short story "By the Light of My Heart," a paranormal adventure set in County Sligo in 1911. Stay tuned!

Guinness Beef Stew a la Pat

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:35:00 +0000

Cold weather brings out cravings for heartier food. The warm weather quinoa, bulghur, and veggie salads that kept us cool in July simply won't do anymore. Last autumn I found myself at the Abbey Tavern in the chilly North Dublin Village of Howth, one of my favorite places to visit, which you know if you follow my blogs. (Pictured is Howth's East Pier with Ireland's Eye and Lambay Island in the distance.)

Sitting before a roaring peat fire with a glass of wine and a bowl of Guinness Beef Stew came close to topping nearly every heavenly experience I've ever known. But the cook wouldn't share the recipe! Undaunted, I strove to recreate the succulent dish after I returned to New Hampshire. Through trial and much error, I came up with a delectable stew on a par with the one I enjoyed in Howth, and I'm happy to share the recipe with you here. Sorry I can't offer a roaring peat fire!

PAT'S GUINNESS BEEF STEW

4-5 lbs. beef stew meat, well trimmed

4 Tbs. vegetable oil

A dollop of bacon fat

4 Tbs. flour

One big vidalia onion, chopped

2 lbs. sliced mushrooms, white, wild, or mixed to your taste

A few cloves of garlic, minced

1 can of beef broth

3 cans of Guinness Stout

2 tsps. Worcestershire sauce

2 tsps. dried thyme

A few bay leaves

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a stew pot. Add bacon fat and brown the meat, sprinkling with flour as it cooks. Remove meat and set aside. Add chopped onions and cook for a few minutes until soft, then add the mushrooms and sauté until they release their moisture and start to brown, adding minced garlic and sprinkling on any remaining flour. Return meat to the mixture, add the beef broth, Guinness, and remaining ingredients. Stir well and simmer for about two hours, or until meat is tender. Serve with mashed potatoes. Serves six to eight hungry people and leftovers are great.

Novelspot Review for "A Band of Roses"

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:53:00 +0000

What a delightful surprise to find this review today! The reviewer is Rob Shelsky, and he posted his review of "A Band of Roses" on Novelspot. Here's an excerpt:

"As with all alternate reality books, one must accept with a willing suspension of disbelief that such a universe can exist, and would be the way it is in the story. At accomplishing this, some authors are better than others, and Ms. McDermott is one of those better authors. She weaves a fast-paced tale in a believable setting, one filled with action, adventure, intrigue, and strange twists . . . A Band of Roses is a well-rounded, action-filled novel, one with a strong element of romance, and a book that will keep the reader on the edge of their seat. I highly recommend A Band of Roses by Pat McDermott. This story thoroughly deserves a 9 out of a possible 10 rating, for it is a nearly perfect read!"

Thank you, Mr. Shelsky, for brightening my day!

Release Date for "Fiery Roses"

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:10:00 +0000

Red Rose Publishing has assigned a release date of December 24, 2009 for "Fiery Roses," the sequel to "A Band of Roses." Preview the first chapter here!

The Hill of Tara and Brú Na Bóinne

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 01:11:00 +0000

Our brief stop in Liverpool surprised me. The lovely parks and blend of old and modern architecture we viewed "In the Footsteps of the Beatles" quickly dispelled our ideas of a sooty, industrial city. We had great fun seeing the haunts and homes of John, Paul, George, and Ringo, including a museum dedicated to their rise to stardom.
By the next morning, our ship had crossed the Irish Sea and berthed in Dublin Port. We set out early with my aunt and uncle for a day trip back in time, to the royal county of Meath. Our tour began with a visit to the Hill of Tara, seat of the High Kings of Ireland. Here we are with the Lia Fáil, the Stone of Destiny, said to roar when the rightful High King touched it, though it remained silent beneath our reverent touch. Our knowledgeable tour guide described the standing stones, King Cormac's House, and the Mound of the Hostages, pictured to the right behind Diane and me. Despite years of excavation, much remains unknown about this mystical site.

Our next stop was UNESCO World Heritage Site Brú Na Bóinne, Irish for the Palace of the Boyne, often referred to as the Bend in the Boyne, more commonly known as the Boyne Valley. This fertile area of County Meath contains the remains of forty or so neolithic passage tombs built around 3,000 B.C., which makes them over 5,000 years old, older than the pyramids of Egypt. The enormous megalithic tombs of Newgrange (pictured), Knowth, and Dowth dominate the landscape. Mike and I had visited Newgrange twice, but this was our first visit to Knowth, where the largest number of tombs to date have been excavated. The ancient people who built them constructed the famous facade of Newgrange from white quartz they quarried fifty miles south in the Wicklow Mountains.

Passage tombs are found throughout Atlantic Europe, particularly in France and Brittany. They are circular mounds containing a passage and at least one chamber. The mounds are encircled by kerb stones, many of which display mysterious designs and carvings.

The Knowth complex lies at the western end of Brú Na Bóinne. The massive passage grave is ringed by 127 large kerb stones decorated with neolithic artwork. Visitors are allowed partway inside for a glimpse into history. After we enjoyed the eerie sight, we climbed to the top of the mound and enjoyed a breathtaking view of the valley. Wondering how the area had looked 5,000 years ago and what the people who'd lived here were like, we wandered around the ancient mound and its eighteen satellite tombs until it was time to

return to the ship.

The Giant's Causeway

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:33:00 +0000

The oldest theory concerning the origin of The Giant’s Causeway maintains that this amazing stretch of Ireland’s North Antrim coast is all that remains of a bridge formed long ago by the giant Finn MacCool to link Ireland and Scotland.

The main hero of the Fenian Cycle of Irish mythology, Finn led the Fianna, a band of warriors who roamed around Ireland in the third century AD.

Finn shows up in many entertaining tales. The legend concerning the Causeway depicts him as a mighty giant seeking to do battle with his rival, the Scottish giant Benandonner. Being a hospitable sort, Finn set a series of huge stepping stones across the Irish Sea to allow Benandonner to come over to fight without wetting his feet. But when Finn saw the monstrous size of the approaching giant, he ran home and asked his wife to hide him. She dressed him as a baby and placed him in a giant cradle. When Benandonner saw what he thought was an infant, he concluded that the child’s father must be huge indeed. Terrified, Benandonner fled back to Scotland, tearing up the stepping stones as he ran so Finn couldn’t follow.

The geologists tell a less fanciful story. The Causeway is part of the Antrim Plateau, the largest lava plateau left in Europe. The massive cliffs projecting into the Atlantic Ocean are the result of volcanic activity that tranpsire 60 million years ago. Lava filled a riverbed and cooled slowly, cracking into polygonal columns and forming unusually shaped structures with intriguing names like the Giant’s Boot (pictured with me sitting in it) and the Giant’s Organ (nothing anatomical here - it seems Finn created a pipe organ for his son Oisin to play).

Our visit to the Causeway, a World Heritage site we’ve wanted to visit for years but couldn’t seem to fit into our travels, was a shore excursion offered by our cruise line. We visited Antrim during typical Irish weather: blue skies one minute, rain the next. Lots of folks got wet, but everyone was smiling. We saw several rainbows before returning to our tour bus for a drive down the lovely Antrim coast.

After a delicious lunch at a local hotel, we stopped briefly at the remains of historic Dunluce Castle and viewed the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, which we did not cross. Back to the ship we went to prepare for the next day’s tour: Liverpool.

View the video of the Causeway's gorgeous sweep!

The Edinburgh Military Tattoo

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 14:12:00 +0000

We stood in a long line leading up to Edinburgh Castle grateful for the hoods on our jackets. A round of Scottish showers dampened everything but our spirits. A rainbow burst across the roiling clouds as the line started moving, a good omen we hoped. The Tattoo would take place outdoors. As it turned out, the rain held off for the rest of the evening. We climbed the stands to seats facing the castle, the best seats in the house, courtesy of our pampering cruise line.

Scotland first presented The Edinburgh Military Tattoo in 1950. The Tattoo's current patron is Anne, Princess Royal. With an annual audience of over 200,000 and 100 million viewers watching on international television, this electrifying it’s generally considered the biggest and best Military Tattoo in the world.

"Tattoo" in the military sense has nothing to do with puncturing the skin to create indelible designs. The word comes from "Doe den tap toe," a Dutch phrase meaning "put the tap to" or "turn off the tap." In the Lowland Countries during the 17th and 18th centuries, the cry told tavern owners it was time to turn off their ale taps. The British Army, stationed in Flanders during the War of the Austrian Succession, adopted the phrase and transformed it into a ritual performed by their drummers and pipers each night to round up their troops. The "Tattoo" soon became the last duty call of the day and eventually came to mean an evening performance by military musicians.

And a performance is what we got. I expected the splendid show of hundreds of kilts, bagpipes and drums. I didn’t realize we’d see military bands from all over the world, including the South Sea Island of Tonga, Switzerland, China, South Africa, and Australia. A thrilling flyover by a Royal Air Force jet began the show. Marching bands then entered the esplanade with the torchlit castle providing a backdrop for ingenious light shows and an occasional display of fireworks. This year’s Tattoo coincided with the 250th anniversary of the birth of Robert Burns, and members of the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama treated us to special presentations of his songs and stories.

After the big finale, the chilling sound of the Lone Piper playing from the top of the castle signaled the end of the pageant. The March Out had everyone in the stands cheering. In high spirits, we made our way back to the ship. We'd seen The Tattoo!

Check out this video of Switzerland's Top Secret Drum Corps!

Cruising Into History

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:41:00 +0000

A brief but pleasant stopover in Dublin helped us acclimate ourselves to the five-hour time change between New Hampshire and the British Isles. For the better part of three days, we enjoyed our favorite restaurants and bookstores and revisited familiar spots. We also paid our first visit to Ireland’s National Botanic Gardens, established in 1795. We found this gorgeous urban retreat filled with flowers and plants from all over the world and set in a wide variety of themed gardens. Desert and tropical rainforest flora thrived in an array of greenhouses that are an adventure all their own. From the formal rose garden to the more casual marsh and woodland plantings, this Dublin paradise and its ponds were not only a joy to explore, but free of charge.

After a few sunny days in Ireland’s tourist-packed capital, we hopped an early morning shuttle to Heathrow Airport. Two Crystal Cruise reps brought us to a minivan, and we were quickly on our way to Dover with three other shipmates. When we arrived, the sight of those famous white cliffs astounded us. So beautiful, and Dover Castle atop them made it easy to visualize the area as it must have looked centuries ago, without all the modern commercialization.

The Crystal Symphony awaited us at the dock. After we completed the boarding process, a staff member escorted us to a lounge on Deck Eleven (Symphony has twelve in all). He apologized that our rooms weren’t ready. Not a problem. Several glasses of complimentary French champagne, a spectacular view of those white cliffs, and the realization that we’d traveled from Dover, New Hampshire to Dover, England in a few short days kept us very merry indeed.

Wobbling to our stateroom several glasses of champagne later, we met my aunt and uncle, the perpetrators of the whole cruise idea, bless them. We settled into our well-appointed rooms and went to the main dining room to sample the first of many outstanding dinners. Soon we were underway, sailing the North Sea through the night and all the next day, passing England’s eastern shores on our way to southeast Scotland. Our day at sea gave us a chance to explore the ship: The library, the movie and Broadway style theaters, shops, a gymnasium, a tennis court, specialty restaurants, even a casino. At last, Symphony berthed in Rosyth on the Firth of Forth. After a fortifying breakfast, we boarded a shuttle bus for the forty minute ride into the City of Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland.

Knowing our time was limited—we would only have two days in Edinburgh, hardly enough—we saw what little we could of a splendid medieval city oozing with history. We scurried to find the Royal Mile and found the traffic-free thoroughfare jammed with buskers and street musicians: The Edinburgh Festival was underway.
Omnipresent pipers in traditional dress filled the air with music distinctly Scottish.

An official guide stationed on a busy corner pointed us toward Edinburgh Castle. We climbed to the top of the steep cobblestone street packed with kilts and cashmere shops. When we reached the castle, we found stadium style stands set up on its esplanade. This was where we’d attend the Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

Opting to return the next day to see more of the castle and Holyrood Palace, along with as much as the Hop On/Hop Off tour bus allowed, we enjoyed lunch in a whisky (no "e" in Scottish whiskey) museum. Edinburgh had captured us. We decided we’d visit again one day on our own. We’d wander through the New and Old Towns, explore the underground vaults, and take our time visiting museums, shops, and the zoo. With that pleasant thought in mind, we took the shuttle back to the ship to prepare for the Tattoo.

Howth Therapy

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Sat, 22 Aug 2009 16:16:00 +0000

"Howth is Magic" says the current tourist brochure for Ireland's maritime gem on the northern fringe of Dublin Bay. I love visiting Howth, but we almost didn't make the nine-minute train ride this trip. We've been there so often, I thought perhaps we should try someplace different. But Mike said "Let's go," and after a late breakfast at Bewley's on Grafton Street, we caught the DART at Pearse Station. The decision was a good one. There's no better cure for jet lag than a walk out on the east pier followed by a visit to the venerable Abbey Tavern for classic Irish refreshment.

Howth is a picturesque village on the peninsula of Howth Head, which juts out over the northern part of Dublin Bay. Once a small fishing village, Howth has evolved greatly over the years. The boats still bring in the freshest seafood around, yet upscale restaurants and shops lure tourists from all over the world. The grounds of Howth Castle now include a luxury hotel and the largest golf course in Ireland. A marina filled with sailboats graces the harbor. And the scenery . . . oh, the scenery.

The cliff walks have lured many hikers, including me, to view sights that haven't changed in ages. When Mike and I trekked along those heathery cliffs a few years ago, I easily pictured Viking ships hurtling in to attack as they did in the ninth century. No need to do battle nowadays, however. Howth's property prices would knock the wind out of those Viking sails in a flash. In fact, I chose Howth as Prince Peadar Boru's fictitious home in A Band of Roses. Peadar's imaginary mansion would fit right in with the elegant homes overlooking Balscadden Bay from Howth Head.

One of my favorite stories about Howth concerns Pirate Queen Grace O'Malley. According to the legend, she was cruising home from England in 1576 and stopped to lodge at Howth Castle for the night. The Earl of Howth turned her away. Infuriated by the breach of hospitality, she kidnapped the earl's grandson and heir and sailed home to Mayo. She returned the boy once the earl met her unique ransom demand: he must never rebuff unexpected guests again. To this day, the gates of Deer Park, the earl's demesne, are always open, and an extra place is set each night at the castle's dinner table.

Our Dublin adventures continued today. Stay tuned.

"A Band of Roses" Trailer Takes First Place!

pat@patmcdermott.net (Pat McDermott) — Sun, 02 Aug 2009 19:08:00 +0000

The winners for the July 2009 You Gotta Read Videos Trailer Contest have been announced. I'm thrilled that "A Band of Roses" finished in first place. My sincere thanks to everyone who voted for us!